13 replies to this topic

[Seesee]

Keep seeing these amazing ultra macro shots from the Raynox extenders, but a bit confused how they work, or what they can work on. If { Tina willing } I was thinking of buying such, what would be my best choice of lens to put one on ? Do they work OK with all DSLR's ?.......my thoughts would be to use my Nikon D30 + Tamron 28/75 as the base lens and attach a Raynox to the front = 67 mm thread size....or maybe my 80-200 with the Nikon D300 ? = 77mm

[Danny]

Awww look out, its a long boring one mate

You do need to watch the filter size Col. They come with a spring sideways clip that hooks onto the filter ring of the lens. If the lens diameter is too large, you will get vignetting. Should work on a 67 mm, but, but........... it also depends on the focal length. I use a 45-200 and 100-300. 62mm filter size.

Forget the 77mm thread. Vignetting written all over it.

So at the 45mm end I just miss vignetting, anything above that is fine with a longer focal length. Heres the advantage Col, higher ratio at a much further lens to subject distance. The Raynox is a 3 element and 3 group design, you won't get any CA any where near it. It is highly corrected. With a 100-300 at the 300mm end I get a 3:1 ratio at a lens to subject distance of 210mm. Even to get a 1:1 with a macro lens like the 90mm, well you already know the issue, you need to get pretty close. So my bellows and macro lenses have all retired . I don't miss them one little bit and I'm much better off IMO.

Quality I go by an insects eyes and the fine hairs on its back or legs. Even at F/32 (diffraction territory) the Raynox holds up brilliantly (I use F/22-F/32 constantly). The other way to go with a less ratio is a Raynox DCR-150 or a Canon 250D. If you want higher ratios, the DCR-250 will do it. Takes a little getting used to Col, switch AF off or push the shutter button half way to lock focus and exposure and just move forward or backward until you see critical focus on the eyes and push the shutter button the rest of the way. Click !!. Even at F/32 at a 3:1 DOF = near 0.

All the best Col and cost wise, I paid around $80 US off Ebay.

Danny.

[Seesee]

Cheers Danny....just need to sweet talk Tina now.......she's very lucky to have me hehehehe

[Danny]

Ha, I'm sure she is real lucky mate .

Now what will work well.......... put it on the Tamron 90, set at infinity and that would actually be a nice high ratio setup . It would lose out to a zoom with not being variable, but still a nice combo. You will still have a darn good lens to subject distance to work with.

I'll do an article on this Col. I don't think people actually realise just how sharp these setups can be and how versatile. The ratios are beyond most macro lenses, except bellows specialised macro lenses (Think tiny and expensive, Canon and Olympus up to a 10:1) and the Canon 65mm MP-E and even then, most don't use the 5:1 on it.

[Danny]

Ok, try this one Col, fresh for ya in the articles................

http://www.australas...ro-by-danny-r18

[Seesee]

Thanks Danny, will have to look into this more deeply

[Seesee]

Dam, now ya got my thirst for more macros going mate....so the Tammy 90mm ya reckon, sounds ideal, have been checking ebay and yep, for around $80.00. Might have to hold off for a couple of weeks though,just spent $170.00 on hiking boots yesterday, but itching to be able to more with my current macro set up

[Danny]

I've spent way over budget this end as well lately Col . I know what you mean. On the Tamron 90mm you will get a great ratio, sharp as a tack and you can still use it on other lenses to try it out. You will enjoy it mate. It does take a little to get used to once you hit over 1:1, lighting and DOF can be a interesting. Its a different world over 1:1. You are as stubborn as me, so no sweat

[Seesee]

Determined to get one sometime soon...ish.....do you do much photo stacking Danny to overcome the shallow dof problem ?

[Danny]

Stacked about 5-6 images overall Col. The problem is getting live subjects to stay still for awhile. Put it this way mate, a lot of the stacked images you see of subjects are either dead or very drunk . That has never appealed. Looks spectacular, but just not me.

[Seesee]

Stacked about 5-6 images overall Col. The problem is getting live subjects to stay still for awhile. Put it this way mate, a lot of the stacked images you see of subjects are either dead or very drunk . That has never appealed. Looks spectacular, but just not me.

Must try it sometime on static shots like native Orchids or the like....I think I can focus stack in CS4...curious as to what program you use to do it.

[Danny]

I use an old program called CombineZ. There are a few now days, but I stick to what I know and CombineZ is free Col. It all came from the astro shooters who used to stack shots of the planets, etc, for contrast and details. Then magically it became HDR......awww look new software, new process, we will put it in graphics software and call it new magic . LOL. Funny how things happen sometimes. PS stacks. CS4 and upward.

Plants is ideal Col, hang on............



So 6 images on Carnation stamens at around 7-10mm long. I was using around f F/8 for each shot. Welcome to DOF macro style Panasonic G2, 45-200mm, DCR-250

Final shot is a slight crop.

[Danny]

Monarch side on with 3 shots stacked a F/22 each. Wet and breathing of course..............

Attached Images

• 

[Seesee]

Wow danny, thanks for that info mate, really going to have to get my act together to try this....the monarch is amazing